As I mentioned in an earlier post we were making an effort to see new places on this trip, and in researching this trip we learned that the Champagne region was only a 90-minute car ride (~120 km) from Paris. A very easy decision to make.
Our travel agent Deb Siegle set us up with Steeve Calvo of The Americans in Paris for a day tour. Steeve is just as passionate about Champagne as he is about being a guide and traveling. On the drive out he described the history of the area and World War I and II events that occurred in the area. He also discussed the history of the Champagne area, how Champagne was created and how the local growers and big producers work together to ensure the quality of the region’s well-known product.
Wanting us to see the difference between a small and big champagne producer Steve started us at Champagne Pierre Morlet. The Morlet family has been working in the valley since the 1800s selling their grapes to the big champagne houses. Over time the family’s direction changed from not only growing the grapes but producing as well with Pierre Morlet creating the champagne is known for. The house is currently run by Eric Morlet with the help of his son Nicolas. One of Eric’s other sons Luc worked for the family vineyards before moving to Napa and founding Morlet Family Vineyards near St. Helena. Eric was our guide showing us the cellars and packing line where he put Kim to work. Eric demonstrated disgorging champagne by hand without losing any of the product. An intimate, hands-on visit, merci Eric!
Steeve next took us into Reims (the unofficial capital of the region) for lunch but first stopped at Notre-Dame de Reims. A church was founded at this location in the 5th century and it was here that Clovis I, who united the Frankish tribes was baptized setting up the tradition of all the Kings of France being coronated here. The cathedral had its ups and downs and was heavily damaged in World War I. It was restored with the help of the Rockefeller Foundation and is now a Unesco World Heritage site.
The final stop of the day was at Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, one of the largest champagne houses in France. Philippe Clicquot founded the house and decided to bring champagne to the world at large. Philippe decided to join forces with Nicolas Ponsardin, another successful businessman uniting their two companies in a classic manner, an arranged marriage between Philippe’s son François and Nicolas’s daughter Barbe-Nicole. Unfortunately, the marriage was short with François passing at age 30 after 7 years of marriage. After the death of his son, Philippe wanted to liquidate the company but Barbe-Nicole convinced him to let her manage the business. This was unusual at the time, the laws at the time were strict on women with some grace given to widows. Philippe agreed to Barbe-Nicole‘s proposal as long as she agreed to an apprenticeship first. She did and went on to create the business we know today and put in place many firsts for the industry including making the first vintage champagne, inventing the riddling table, and creating the first blended rosé champagne. The visit to Veuve Clicquot included a cave tour and tasting. The caves were vast and cool, the chalk was wet to the touch, and workers over the years carved their names and image into the chalk. The contrast to the first tour was great, much more highly produced, and less spontaneous than the visit with the Morlets but still enjoyable. If you come to visit the Champagne I recommend visiting some small producers along with the large ones.
It was also a wet day as well but with Steeve’s expert help we did not notice. He was a patient guide and driver and we appreciate his help and guidance. Merci Steeve!
